কুর্তা

কুর্তা হল দক্ষিণ এশিয়ার বেশ কয়েকটি অঞ্চলের পরিধান করা একটি ঢিলেঢালা কলারবিহীন জামা।,^[১]^[২] বর্তমানে এটি সারা বিশ্বেই পরিধান করা হয়।^[৩] এর উৎস খুঁজলে যেতে হবে অন্ত-প্রাচীন বা প্রারম্ভিক মধ্যযুগের মধ্য এশিয়ার যাযাবরদের পরিধেয় প্রথম দিকেরনিমার দিকে। কুর্তা বহু শতাব্দী ধরেই শৈলীগতভাবে বিকশিত হয়েছে। বিশেষত ভারতীয় উপমহাদেশে প্রতিদিনের পোশাক এবং বিশেষ কোন অনুষ্ঠানের পোশাক হিসাবে এটি এযাবৎকাল ধরে পরিহিত হয়ে আসছে। নারীদের জন্য বানানো বা নারীদের পরিহিত কুর্তাকে কখনো কখনো কুর্তি বলেও ডাকা হয়।^[৪]

কুর্তা ঐতিহ্যগতভাবে তুলা বা রেশম দিয়ে তৈরি করা হয়। এটি একেবারে সাদামাটা বা সূচিকর্মের অলংকরণযুক্ত হতে পারে, যেমন- চিকন।^[৩] ঐতিহ্যবাহী কুর্তার সামনের এবং পিছনের দিকটি আয়তক্ষেত্রাকার কাপড়ের টুকরো দিয়ে তৈরি করা হয়। ঐতিহ্যবাহী কুর্তার আস্তিনগুলো সংকীর্ণ না হয়ে কব্জি পর্যন্ত চলে যায়।^[৩] প্রান্তগুলো মুড়ি-সেলাই দেত্তয়া হয় তবে তা দৃঢ় করা হয় না; এই ধরনের কুর্তা পুরুষ এবং মহিলা উভয়ই পরতে পারেন। এটি ঐতিহ্যগতভাবে কলারবিহীন হয়ে থাকে তবে স্থায়ী কলারযুক্ত কুর্তাও ক্রমশ জনপ্রিয়তা পাচ্ছে।^[৩]

কুর্তা সাধারণ পায়জামা, আলগা সালোয়ার, চুড়িদার বা সাধারণ জিন্সের সাথে পরা যেতে পারে।^[৩]

ব্যুৎপত্তি

অক্সফোর্ড ইংরেজি অভিধান অনুসারে, কুর্তা হল সাধারণত সালোয়ার, চুড়িদার বা পায়জামার সাথে দক্ষিণ এশিয়ার লোকদের পরিহিত একটি কলারবিহীন শার্ট। যার উৎপত্তি হয়েছে উর্দু এবং ফারসি শব্দ কুর্তাহ থেকে।^[৫] ১৯১৩ সালে ইংরেজিতে কুর্তার প্রথম ব্যবহার হয় টি.ই. লরেন্সের হোম লেটারসে। তাতে লেখা ছিল "সাদা ভারতীয় পোশাক ধুতি কুর্তায় আমি"।

ইতিহাস

লেখক রোশন আলকাজির মতে, সেলাইযুক্ত ( অর্থাৎ কেটে সেলাই করা) পোশাক মধ্য এশিয়া থেকে দক্ষিণ এশিয়ায় এসেছিল।^[৬] প্রাচীন যুগের সিসিয়ান/পার্সিয়ান/কুশন আগ্রাসনের সময় অল্পস্বল্পভাবে এর বিস্তার ঘটেছিল, গজনী মাহমুদের আগ্রাসনের পরে এটা স্পষ্টতই বৃদ্ধি পেয়েছিল। দ্বাদশ শতাব্দীর শেষদিকে মুসলিম বিজয়ের পরে কুর্তা পরিণত হয়েছিল মোগল আমলে সাধারণ একটি পোশাকে।^[৭]^[৮]

কুর্তি

আধুনিক কালে নারীদের জন্য তৈরি একপ্রকার ছোট কুর্তাকে কুর্তি বলা হয়। যাইহোক প্রথাগতভাবে কুর্তি বলতে ওয়েস্ট কোট, জ্যাকেট^[৯] এবং ব্লাউজ ^[১০] বোঝানো হয় এবং অনুমান করা হয় এটি শুঙ্গ আমলের (খ্রিস্টপূর্ব দ্বিতীয় শতাব্দী) নিমা থেকে এসেছে। ^[১১] কুর্তি সাধারণত প্রচলিত পোশাকের চেয়ে অনেক ছোট এবং এটি হালকা উপকরণ দিয়ে তৈরি, যেগুলি কামিজ সেলাইয়ের ক্ষেত্রে ব্যবহৃত হয়।^{[তথ্যসূত্র প্রয়োজন]}

তথ্যসূত্র

↑ Stevenson, Angus (২০১০), Oxford Dictionary of English, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 981, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-957112-3, A loose collarless shirt worn by people from South Asia, usually with a salwar, churidars, or pyjama. From Urdu and Persian kurtah.
↑ "kurta", Cambridge Advanced Learner's Dictionary and Thesaurus, Cambridge University Press, ২০১৩ Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South Asia"
↑ ^ক ^খ ^গ ^ঘ ^ঙ Shukla, Pravina (২০১৫), The Grace of Four Moons: Dress, Adornment, and the Art of the Body in Modern India, Indiana University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 71, আইএসবিএন 978-0-253-02121-2 Quote: "The kurta—the tunic—is likewise variable in its cut. It might be wide or tight, there is variety in the length and width of the sleeves, the height of the slits on either side, and especially the shape of the neck. The length of the tunic varies as well, ranging from upper-thigh to well below the knee. Like most garments of this type, worn by people in many countries in South Asia, the Middle East, and North Africa, the tunic always covers the crotch area of both genders.
↑ Alkazi, Roshen (২০০২), "Evolution of Indian Costume as a result of the links between Central Asia and India in ancient and medieval times", Rahman, Abdur, India's Interaction with China, Central and West Asia, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 464–484, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-565789-0 Quote: "This exposure to a different mode of dress for four centuries in the ancient period and for six centuries under Islamic rulers later, created the varieties of cut and sewn garments which now form and intrinsic part of what today is called Indian costume. This applies particularly to the Deccan and the Northern parts of India. The South, however, retained the earlier draped and unstitched garments of ancient India, e.g., the antariya/dhoti, the uttariya/dupatta and cummerband/waist cloth. These cut and sewn garments of the invaders underwent dramatic changes evolving from simple Central Asian nomadic costume (both Kushan and the Turk Mongol peoples were horse-riding nomads) to the highly civilized, urban and decorative costume of the Mughal court and the day-to-day comfortable and relaxed dress of the common man of today called the kurta-pyjama (page 468)"
↑ Oxford English Dictionary, Second Edition. 1989.
↑ Alkazi, Roshen (২০০২), "Evolution of Indian Costume as a result of the links between Central Asia and India in ancient and medieval times", Rahman, Abdur, India's Interaction with China, Central an-5d West Asia, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 464–484, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-565789-0 Quote:"Taking the Kushan period as a starting point the changes that took place in Indian costume as a result of the connections with Uzbekistan in Central Asia are discussed The ordinary dress of the people of India till then had consisted usually of unstitched garments as antariya/dhoti, uttariya/dupatta and a kayabandh/cummerbund with a turban for men. With the advent of the Kushans this was extended, and the fashion of wearing sewn garments of Central Asiatic pattern seems to have made headway with many classes of Indian in North India The cut-and-sewn garments which are rarely visible in the previous Mauryan and Sunga sculptures are more commonly found in this period. The Kushans under Kanishka spread their empire over large parts of Central Asia and India. The Kushans in AD 48 entered Gandhara under Kadphises and overthrew the Greeks. Later they took the Kabul valley from the Parthians and extended their empire to cover the Punjab. Sind, northern Gujarat. and part of Central Asia. Still later they annexed Kashmir and part of Chinese Turkestan. Kanishka (AD 120-162) was their greatest ruler. Although the Kushans ruled for almost three centuries, they never looked on India as their home. Detesting the heat of the plains they retired to Kashmir or Afghanistan in the summer. They wore the clothes of Central Asia which were cut and sewn and consisted of long padded coals and riding boots with spurs and pointed caps, totally different from the draped and unstitched garments worn by the Indians. (page 465)"
↑ Alkazi, Roshen (২০০২), "Evolution of Indian Costume as a result of the links between Central Asia and India in ancient and medieval times", Rahman, Abdur, India's Interaction with China, Central and West Asia, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 464–484, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-565789-0 Quote: "This exposure to a different mode of dress for four centuries in the ancient period and for six centuries under Islamic rulers later, created the varieties of cut and sewn garments which now form and intrinsic part of what today is called Indian costume. This applies particularly to the Deccan and the Northern parts of India. The South, however, retained the earlier draped and unstitched garments of ancient India, e.g., the antariya/dhoti, the uttariya/dupatta and cummerband/waist cloth. These cut and sewn garments of the invaders underwent dramatic changes evolving from simple Central Asian nomadic costume (both Kushan and the Turk Mongol peoples were horse-riding nomads) to the highly civilized, urban and decorative costume of the Mughal court and the day-to-day comfortable and relaxed dress of the common man of today called the kurta-pyjama (page 468)"
↑ Alkazi, Roshen (২০০২), "Evolution of Indian Costume as a result of the links between Central Asia and India in ancient and medieval times", Rahman, Abdur, India's Interaction with China, Central and West Asia, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 464–484, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-565789-0 Quote: "Timur's large empire in Central Asia influenced the garments worn at all Islamic courts including India. Babur who himself came from the Ferghana Valley in Uzbekistan was the first of the Mughals and he and his progeny continued exercising their influence on Indian costume right till the advent of the British. The role of the Mughals in creating new and fashionable modes of dress started to percolate to the masses in the same way that British costume did in a later period. What we see today in the trousers, shirts and coats is the British influence on Indian dress, just as the kurta, pyjama, salwar, achkan is that of Central Asia ..."
↑ Forbes, Duncan (1861), A Smaller Hindustani and English Dictionary
↑ Bahri, Hardev (2006), Advanced Learner's Hindi English Dictionary
↑ Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue (1982)

[Stevenson2010-1] Stevenson, Angus (২০১০), Oxford Dictionary of English, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 981, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-957112-3, A loose collarless shirt worn by people from South Asia, usually with a salwar, churidars, or pyjama. From Urdu and Persian kurtah.

[cambridge-english-2] "kurta", Cambridge Advanced Learner's Dictionary and Thesaurus, Cambridge University Press, ২০১৩ Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South Asia"

[Shukla2015-3] ক ^খ ^গ ^ঘ ^ঙ Shukla, Pravina (২০১৫), The Grace of Four Moons: Dress, Adornment, and the Art of the Body in Modern India, Indiana University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 71, আইএসবিএন 978-0-253-02121-2 Quote: "The kurta—the tunic—is likewise variable in its cut. It might be wide or tight, there is variety in the length and width of the sleeves, the height of the slits on either side, and especially the shape of the neck. The length of the tunic varies as well, ranging from upper-thigh to well below the knee. Like most garments of this type, worn by people in many countries in South Asia, the Middle East, and North Africa, the tunic always covers the crotch area of both genders.

[Rahman-Alkazi2002-4] Alkazi, Roshen (২০০২), "Evolution of Indian Costume as a result of the links between Central Asia and India in ancient and medieval times", Rahman, Abdur, India's Interaction with China, Central and West Asia, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 464–484, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-565789-0 Quote: "This exposure to a different mode of dress for four centuries in the ancient period and for six centuries under Islamic rulers later, created the varieties of cut and sewn garments which now form and intrinsic part of what today is called Indian costume. This applies particularly to the Deccan and the Northern parts of India. The South, however, retained the earlier draped and unstitched garments of ancient India, e.g., the antariya/dhoti, the uttariya/dupatta and cummerband/waist cloth. These cut and sewn garments of the invaders underwent dramatic changes evolving from simple Central Asian nomadic costume (both Kushan and the Turk Mongol peoples were horse-riding nomads) to the highly civilized, urban and decorative costume of the Mughal court and the day-to-day comfortable and relaxed dress of the common man of today called the kurta-pyjama (page 468)"

[OED89-5] Oxford English Dictionary, Second Edition. 1989.

[Rahman-Alkazi2002-465-6] Alkazi, Roshen (২০০২), "Evolution of Indian Costume as a result of the links between Central Asia and India in ancient and medieval times", Rahman, Abdur, India's Interaction with China, Central an-5d West Asia, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 464–484, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-565789-0 Quote:"Taking the Kushan period as a starting point the changes that took place in Indian costume as a result of the connections with Uzbekistan in Central Asia are discussed The ordinary dress of the people of India till then had consisted usually of unstitched garments as antariya/dhoti, uttariya/dupatta and a kayabandh/cummerbund with a turban for men. With the advent of the Kushans this was extended, and the fashion of wearing sewn garments of Central Asiatic pattern seems to have made headway with many classes of Indian in North India The cut-and-sewn garments which are rarely visible in the previous Mauryan and Sunga sculptures are more commonly found in this period. The Kushans under Kanishka spread their empire over large parts of Central Asia and India. The Kushans in AD 48 entered Gandhara under Kadphises and overthrew the Greeks. Later they took the Kabul valley from the Parthians and extended their empire to cover the Punjab. Sind, northern Gujarat. and part of Central Asia. Still later they annexed Kashmir and part of Chinese Turkestan. Kanishka (AD 120-162) was their greatest ruler. Although the Kushans ruled for almost three centuries, they never looked on India as their home. Detesting the heat of the plains they retired to Kashmir or Afghanistan in the summer. They wore the clothes of Central Asia which were cut and sewn and consisted of long padded coals and riding boots with spurs and pointed caps, totally different from the draped and unstitched garments worn by the Indians. (page 465)"

[Rahman-Alkazi2002-468-1-7] Alkazi, Roshen (২০০২), "Evolution of Indian Costume as a result of the links between Central Asia and India in ancient and medieval times", Rahman, Abdur, India's Interaction with China, Central and West Asia, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 464–484, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-565789-0 Quote: "This exposure to a different mode of dress for four centuries in the ancient period and for six centuries under Islamic rulers later, created the varieties of cut and sewn garments which now form and intrinsic part of what today is called Indian costume. This applies particularly to the Deccan and the Northern parts of India. The South, however, retained the earlier draped and unstitched garments of ancient India, e.g., the antariya/dhoti, the uttariya/dupatta and cummerband/waist cloth. These cut and sewn garments of the invaders underwent dramatic changes evolving from simple Central Asian nomadic costume (both Kushan and the Turk Mongol peoples were horse-riding nomads) to the highly civilized, urban and decorative costume of the Mughal court and the day-to-day comfortable and relaxed dress of the common man of today called the kurta-pyjama (page 468)"

[Rahman-Alkazi2002-468-2-8] Alkazi, Roshen (২০০২), "Evolution of Indian Costume as a result of the links between Central Asia and India in ancient and medieval times", Rahman, Abdur, India's Interaction with China, Central and West Asia, Oxford University Press, পৃষ্ঠা 464–484, আইএসবিএন 978-0-19-565789-0 Quote: "Timur's large empire in Central Asia influenced the garments worn at all Islamic courts including India. Babur who himself came from the Ferghana Valley in Uzbekistan was the first of the Mughals and he and his progeny continued exercising their influence on Indian costume right till the advent of the British. The role of the Mughals in creating new and fashionable modes of dress started to percolate to the masses in the same way that British costume did in a later period. What we see today in the trousers, shirts and coats is the British influence on Indian dress, just as the kurta, pyjama, salwar, achkan is that of Central Asia ..."

[9] Forbes, Duncan (1861), A Smaller Hindustani and English Dictionary

[10] Bahri, Hardev (2006), Advanced Learner's Hindi English Dictionary

[11] Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue (1982)

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